January 22nd, 2009 Stephen Satterfield
In the first day of a new era of transparency and belt-tightening, its seems only right that we take a fresh look at the place that is producing some of the best value, and receiving the least ink. South Africa, of course!
How fitting then New York Times Chief Wine Critic, Eric Asimov, today writes about the fantastic value coming from South Africa. In a day full of important- if not historical-news, the 4th most emailed article in the Times reads, “Wines of the Times: South African Wines Step onto the Stage”. I myself received a half dozen emails directing me to this article, and certainly countless others who must’ve assumed (rightfully so) that the review would somehow find its way into my inbox. What should we make of this awareness of South African wine? It makes me think 2 things:
1. South Africa is still an unknown entity for the general public, and for people in the trade as well. Opening line from Asimov:
FORGIVE me if I’m excited, but I can’t help it. I want to tell you straight out that South Africa, of all places, is one of the greatest sources for moderately priced cabernet sauvignon on the planet today.
That enthusiasm is rarely expressed by wine writers, who typically reserve such excitement and suprise for producers or varietals, not entire regions-no less one that has been making wine for almost 400 years. Not to suggest Asimov is somehow a novice writer or palate; he is in fact one of my favorite and most trusted wine writers on the entire planet. But, you can tell this idea, South African cabernet sauvignon, is one that he is still trying to wrap his head around. It’s an AHA, a “why didn’t this occur to me sooner?”, dialog.
I am taking liberty with my interpretation. Frankly, I’ve only tasted half the of wines that were listed in the article, and I’ve dedicated a considerable energy to tasting as much wine as possible from here. So the point is, I am optimistic, no, ELATED when I read this. We are all still discovering what this “New Old World” can become. About time a respected wine journalist comes out and puts it out there.
Check out the article in its entirety http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/21/dining/reviews/21wine.html
2. The second point I’d like to make is the brief mention of the, “why”. In the last year, admittedly, I’ve tried to speak less on the ugly segregationist history of the South Africa, and focus more on the possibilities of this “Emerging Wine Region”. Some winemakers who are contributing to this new wave of exciting production are (like the shift in our own country) somewhat removed from the historical opression, and are ready for a new way forward. Not that we should forget…rather, strive to make things better. Besides, the level of frustration and agnst it still arouses in black workers has, in my experience, only salted wounds rather than evoke hopefulness, commitment to change, or even an acknowledgement of how much things have changed in 15 years. I am reminded of our own country’s timeline for tolerance upon seeing our 44th president sworn in yesterday.
Ultimately, helping build the new way forward is how I intend our Foundation to be measured and understood. As we begin to focus on introducing American palates, we will inevitably introduce the history. But, be assured our focus is not on the past, rather on creating a social environment that is fertile for leaders and opportunities. And it is this, not the science, that will determine how well this industry will age.
Support South African wines.
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